The Republic of DAGESTAN
Located in the Northeast Caucasus Mountains, mainly made up of highlands, making travel and communication difficult, Dagestan has an unusual ethnic diversity for a largely tribal region.
With a semi-arid climate, it has a surface area of 50,270 km2.
Surrounded by the Caspian Sea to the east, the country also borders Georgia, Azerbaijan, Kalmykia, Chechnya and Stavropol Krai.
The soil is rich in oil, natural gas, and coal and has more than 1800 water currents (the main being the Soulak River).
Since 1992, Dagestan has been a subject of the Russian Federation.
By consequence, its main language is Russian, to which are added thirteen local languages (коренные языки) of Dagestan: Avar, Agul, Azeri, Dargwa, Koumyk, Lak, Lezgien, Nogai, Rutoul, Tabassaran, Tat language, Tsakhur and Chechen.
The vast majority of the population professes Sunni and Shiite Islam, a minority adheres to Christianity.
Since I have lived in Russia for a few years now, and due to the complex political situation, I decided to travel not back to Europe as I usually do but to explore unusual destinations.
Last summer, without any expectations, I traveled to Dagestan. It was supposed to be a quick stop before Georgia, but in the end, it happened to be one of the best parts of our travel.
I won’t stop repeating it, but Russia definitely never stops surprising me greatly.
It was the first time I found myself in a Russian-speaking land with mainly Islamic traditions, and I met there not only very wild and beautiful landscapes but also kind and generous people.
I noticed how people living with so little were happier and more generous than I had ever seen.
This trip was not only a feast for the eyes but also a discovery of the old traditions and teachings of Islam.
We had Organised a Jeep tour for five days, as it was said to be the best combo with the agency. Our guide was dynamic and local, and he showed us his country just the way it is and shared his love for his roots. Alone, we would have never seen the true beauty of Dagestan: its people.
What are the most beautiful and important places to explore ?
Let's take them in order.
Day 1. From Makhachkala we drive to Barkhan Sary-kum (Dagestan desert), one of the largest sand dunes in Eurasia. Between the sea and mountains standing out of nowhere, this place is breathtaking. It seemed like an alive being, something definitely not earthy.After we drove towards the Glavryba trout farm, which consists of a closed pavilion and a summer outdoor veranda with an extensive entertainment complex, directly above the Sulak River. You can see there how trout are bred. If desired, you can take a fishing rod to catch fish yourself, which will then be prepared for you. We lunch at a picturesque restaurant above the Sulak River, in the middle of an enchanted garden called “Not Boring Garden” (Neskuchnyy Sad). It’s similar to an oasis with delicious food, the perfume of flowers and spices, and singing cicadas. A Must-do.Then we went to visit nearby the beautiful Nokhyo cave with a suspension bridge on the turquoise Sulak Canyon, and from there we rode on an observation deck to a boat ride on a lake reservoir. The ride was spicy, and my heart nearly stopped. It seems that Dagestan's men don’t fear anything and like adrenaline. We stayed overnight at a guest house in the mountains, and I had the best dinner ever.
Day 2. It was a rainy day, and instead of going to the Troll Language and the difficult-to-access village of Goor, we decided to discover two incredible waterfalls : the Tobot waterfall and the Matlas waterfall. Not so far from each other, there’s also the Karadakh Gorge. After lunch, we drove to Kumukh. There we discovered the Burhai-kala fortress with the Juma mosque, built in 777, and walked around the old village. There are many artificial lakes in Dagestan with electric dams in order to keep and bring water to agriculture but also to create energy. I also noticed that a lot of valleys have been man-created on terraces to facilitate cultivation. It looks similar to the rice fields in Mongolia or Thailand.
Day 3. We went sky swing at an altitude of 2600m over a gorge 500 meters high. It was also a glass observation deck, and the view was incredible. This place is actually located above Kuli village, where we slept two nights at a guest house. I met the kindest and most generous people. Of course, it’s surprising to see how they use what the earth offers them (plants, herbs, etc.) and how they live happily with very little but everything. This village is the highest inhabited village in altitude (1923m) and one of the furthest. It’s a big place where water and electricity have only recently been brought in.
Day 4. We drive through the highest mountain pass in Dagestan towards the ancient city of Derbent. It is one of the wildest valleys I have ever seen, and I understood that I let my heart dwell here. The wildest and most beautiful part of Dagestan was, for me, this area. Along the way, we stopped at the ghost village of Chirag at an altitude of, 2300m. There are many abandoned villages in this area, which give the strange impression of glimpsing into the past. Most of the inhabitants decided to leave for an easier life in the main city.We arrived late in the day in Derbent, a city living between the Persian past and seaside resort development. The city is famous for its citadel and historical center, designated by UNESCO as world sites.The first stop on the way was to see the Caspian monster plane, a “Lun-class ekranoplan”. I wish we had also stopped to see the Samur liana forest, but it wasn’t on our way.
Day 5. Main places to discover in Derbent : the Naryn-Kala fortress, the ancient Dzhuma mosque, a walk through the Old Town, the Derbent Embankment with the beach, the Derbent lighthouse, the crystal bridge, the Armenian Church, the Orthodox Church, the Synagogue kele-nymaz, the house of Peter 1, and the cemetery kyrchlyar.
You can do everything by walking, and I would advise using a full day for this.
This last day was supposed to be a walk around the Old Town, buying gifts and souvenirs, but we decided to drive all the way to Vladikavkaz (I will write about it later).
Usually, tourists transfer back to Makhachkala airport and spend a night in the capital. For me, Dagestan's capital was not worthy of a full day, and I would have rather spent it in its countryside.
I had no expectations for Dagestan. And I was the happiest tourist ever.I would add that this trip was not only special for the beauty of the eyes but also for the food.
People were so generous, and with the guests being treated like kings, we have been fed non-stop with a lot of very mouth-watering dishes. If you are vegan, this is not the place for you. If you are not, you will eat delicious sheep meat and different sorts of khinkal with many spices, garlic, herbs and cream.
I hope it gives you the desire to visit this beautiful region of the world.